How to Install a Motorcycle Dash Cam in Australia: Setup, Wiring and the Law
So you've got a motorcycle dash cam, or you're about to, and you want it fitted properly. Good call. A bike camera is only as good as its install: a loose mount gives you shaky, useless footage, and a lead rubbing on a fork leg will fail at the worst possible moment.
This guide walks through a clean DIY fit on an Australian bike, step by step, and finishes with what the law says. It suits split-system bike cameras such as the VIOFO MT1 motorcycle dash cam and the Vantrue F1 motorcycle dash cam. Still choosing a camera? Start with our motorcycle dash cams range or our best motorbike dash cam guide, then come back here for the fit.
Before You Start: Plan the Install
A bike-specific dash cam is a split system. You'll usually be fitting four parts: a recorder box, a front camera, a rear camera and a handlebar remote, all joined by a power harness. Only the two small cameras and the remote live out in the weather.
Before you pick up a spanner, work out three things:
Where the recorder lives. It needs a dry home under the seat or in the tail. The cameras are sealed to their IP rating; the recorder box usually isn't fully sealed.
How the cables will run. Plan each camera lead along the frame, away from anything that moves or gets hot: fork legs, the steering head, the exhaust and the chain. Leave enough slack at the steering head for full lock in both directions.
Where the power comes from. Find a switched circuit in your fuse box, one that's only live with the ignition on, so the camera starts and stops with the bike.
Allow an afternoon for a first fit. Most of that time goes into routing and tidying cables, not into the camera itself.
Step 1: Mounting the Cameras
Mount the front camera on the handlebar or fairing with the horizon level and no mirrors or cowlings in frame. Low on the fork or fairing near the headlight usually gives the cleanest view, and it sees less vibration than the bar itself. For the rear, a number plate bracket or tail tidy works well.
Use anti-vibration mounts, thread-lock the bolts, and test-fit the camera angles before you do the final tightening. Then re-check after your first few rides for any micro-movement. Engine and road vibration will find a loose mount quickly.
Fit the handlebar remote where you can reach it with a gloved thumb without taking your hand off the grip.
Step 2: Power and Wiring
The cleanest setup is usually the included hardwire kit connected to a switched fuse via an add-a-circuit, with a dedicated earth. Most kits include a low-voltage cut-off to protect your battery. If your bike has tight wiring or you want a temporary setup, a quality battery pack works too.
Run the longest cables first, follow the frame, and secure them every 10 to 15 centimetres with cable ties. Coil any excess neatly under the seat with hook-and-loop ties rather than stuffing it into the tail, and keep every run clear of hot and moving parts. Cable ties and proper routing matter more on a bike than in any car install.
Step 3: First Setup and Settings
Format the microSD in the camera, not on your computer. Set the correct time zone, enable GPS if you want speed data, and set loop length to 1 to 3 minutes. Set the G-sensor sensitivity to Medium to avoid locking clips every time you hit a pothole (especially if you're in Melbourne..)
Those settings matter because of how the camera works. It starts with the ignition and uses loop recording, continuously recording over the oldest footage once the card is full, so you never have to press record or manage storage. When the G-sensor (a built-in accelerometer that picks up jolts and hard braking) detects an impact, it locks that clip so it can't be overwritten. That's the footage your insurer or the police will ask for. Set the G-sensor too high and the card fills with locked clips, leaving less room for the loop.
Pro Tip: Skip the cheap microSD cards. Use a V30/U3 high-endurance card from a reputable brand, sized 128 to 256GB. Standard cards wear out fast under constant heat, vibration and continuous writing.
Before your first proper ride, go for a short test loop, then pull the footage onto your phone over Wi-Fi and check the angles, the timestamp and the GPS speed overlay.
Not confident with the wiring? No worries. Reach out to Michael or Harrison and we'll walk you through it, or find an independent technician who does bike work in our installer directory.
Are Motorcycle Dash Cams Legal in Australia?
Yes, generally. Mounting must be secure, must not obstruct your vision or controls, and must not compromise your helmet certification if you're using a helmet mount. Specific rules vary by state, so check with your local road authority if you're unsure.
Motorcycle Dash Cam Install FAQs
How long does a motorcycle dash cam install take?
Allow an afternoon for a first DIY fit. The camera mounts go on quickly; routing and securing the cables neatly is what takes the time.
Will a motorcycle dash cam flatten my battery?
Not while you're riding. Wired to a switched circuit, the camera shuts down with the ignition. Motorcycle batteries are small, so if you want the bike watched while it's parked, talk to us first about a proper power setup.
How often should I replace the microSD card?
Every 12 to 24 months as a general guide, or sooner if you notice corrupted clips or slow formatting times.
Can I just use a GoPro instead?
Great for making ride videos, but not ideal for always-on protection. A dedicated dash cam starts with the bike, loops automatically, and locks incidents via G-sensor. A GoPro does none of that by default. We wrote a whole article on it: Can You Use a GoPro as a Dash Cam?
Got questions about fitting a camera to your bike? Reach out to Michael or Harrison directly. We're happy to talk you through it and help you get a setup that works on Australian roads, not just in a spec sheet.
Browse our full range of motorcycle dash cams, or drop us a line through the contact page.
Last reviewed: 19 August 2026. We do not sell GoPro, and anything said here about how a GoPro behaves as a dash cam is based on GoPro's own published specifications and on what owners have told us, not on our own testing. GoPro change that behaviour with firmware, so check their current specifications before you buy one for this purpose. If a specification, a feature or a price on this page is wrong or has gone out of date, tell us and we will correct it.